Noctex Monaxia Transform Tunic
What are some of your favourite silhouettes to experiment with in your work?

I love silhouettes that just skim the body. I think that’s something that doesn’t go in and out of fashion too fast, and can be worn in many ways.

What does your conceptual process look like? Take us through the steps of concocting your vision and weaving it into reality.

The conceptual process is best described from my recent experience with designing collections versus just individual pieces. I start with looking through my notebooks or sketchbooks from recent months and find a main idea I know I want to have in a collection. From there, its half creative work and half research on what problems I want to address in the season. For example, I have always hated how I can’t layer up in the spring/summer time. So I try to choose fabrics and shapes that allow you to have that feeling of fall layering without the discomfort. From there, I sketch the individual pieces to have a better feel of the shape, make notes on the pattern making logistics, then make a chronological list of what needs to be done to make this design a reality. When I am making the sample, I try to find fabrics that I can imagine the garment in, and start going back and forth from technical 2D pattern making to draping to garment on a mannequin. When the pattern and samples are all tested and ready, I then I need to decide whether the design is better served to be hand sewn, or if I should hand it over to a local sewing team to help me make multiple pieces. Right now and until I graduate, my overall process relies on me being very flexible, since I am still in school.

What made you decide to begin designing multi-wear pieces in your 2013 Fall/Winter collection?

I knew that I did not have the time or finances to invest in a standard 10+ piece collection for my first release, and in a lot of ways, I did not find that I needed to make that many pieces. I gathered my resources and decided that I wanted to play with the idea of a woman on the go, packing last minute for a week long trip, and all she could grab was a dress, a tunic, a sweater with a pair of pants in her luggage, and transforming them every day to look presentable yet comfortable to move in. I think the most valuable pieces I own are those that are either simple, or ones that can work for me in different ways. Even now, when designing a new garment, I always consider if the piece can be worn in different looks and styles outside of its collection concept, because really, that’s what makes something memorable.

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